Contrary to what many think, the holes have nothing to do with weeping the water out. There are two basic types of foundation weep screeds:ġ) Perforated, this has the holes in the upper sloped surface.Ģ) Non-perforated, this has no holes in the upper slope surface. There are two basic locations for weep screeds and the two weep screeds are different, not to be used in the wrong location.ġ) Foundation weep screed, this is designed to be used where the frame wall sets on the foundation.Ģ) Intermediate weep screed, this is designed to be used a frame second story wall (for example) sets on a concrete block first story wall. That water is required to have a weep screed installed which directs the water out from behind the stucco and out from within the wall. See, stucco *is not water proof*, I would not even want to call it 'water-resistant' as water goes through stucco, the water goes through the stucco, goes through the bond breaker paper, then weeps down the back side of the bond breaker paper between it and the house wrap on the wall behind the bond breaker paper. By the way, the MINIMUM thickness for standard 3-coat stucco on frame is 7/8", not 3/4". Then the brown coat (the 2nd coat), then the finish coat (the 3rd coat). The stucco is scratched in and pressed against the paper described in this paragraph, and this paper simply serves as a bond breaker so the stucco does not bond to the house wrap which was installed first. The stucco is 'scratched' (forced into the openings in the expanded metal lat) and that stucco which goes through the openings create 'globs' or 'keys' behind the metal lath are hold the stucco to the metal lath. The paper on the paper backed metal lath (or the 15# or 30# described immediately above) serve as the bond breaker between the stucco and the drainage plane. and only then, do you install the 15# or 30# felt and metal lath, or paper backed metal lath. The drainage plane could be house wrap, Tyvek makes a special house wrap for use behind stucco, it has 'dimples' (for lack of a better term) in it and the rows of dimples are intended to be installed vertically (when the Tyvek is installed horizontally around the house), and those dimples create a drainage plane. That drainage plane could be 30# felt (although that is not necessarily the best material to use as a drainage plane as it soaks up moisture). Stucco on wood frame needs a drainage plane. I-M-P-O-R-T-A-N-T step: namely the drainage plane. It isn't supposed to be a moisture weep system.So you are the one responsible for all those rotted out walls behind stucco lath installed without a drainage plane? I always wondered who the culprit was. When the stucco is applied over the lath the scratch coat goes into the holes of the lath. It is a hard coat system that could not weep moisture. "#66N Short Flange Casing Bead", ClarkDietrich, 2015, 1pg.Stucco is applied using black paper, lath, scratch coat, basecoat and than finish. " "L" Beads (L-Bead Perforated)," Vinyl Corp., 2015, 1 pg. (Mason, OH)Ĭlarkwestern Dietrich Building Systems LLC Wielinga.ĬLAIM The ornamental design for a weep screed, as shown andīay, FL), Wielinga James M. The grantee listed for this patent is Clarkwestern Dietrich Building Systems LLC. This patent grant is currently assigned to Clarkwestern Dietrich Building Systems LLC. patent number D904,649 was granted by the patent office on for weep screed.
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